С чем носить джинсы селвидж
С чем носить джинсы селвидж
Слово «селвидж», которое в последнее время можно часто услышать, означает особый вид обработки краев денима. В таком случае они скрепляются специальной кромкой, как правило простроченной нитками темно-золотого цвета. Помимо этого маркировка «селвидж» обычно говорит об использовании высококачественного японского денима, благодаря которому джинсы становятся более износостойкими. Особой популярностью они пользуются у сникерхедов, так как именно на этом типе джинсов подвороты выглядят максимально уместно. Однако это не означает, что их следует сочетать исключительно с кроссовками – напротив, вам стоит обратить внимание на другие виды обуви. Например, на хайкеры или челси. Джинсы селвидж могут стать частью даже более формального образа, чем тот, о котором мы сказали чуть выше.
FAQ of the episode: Women’s raw denim
Considering the topic of this episode, and the retraction for episode 10, I found it fitting to answer an FAQ I’ve gotten many times over the years: Which brands make raw denim jeans for women?
It’s something that deserves much more attention and airtime, which intend to give it. For now, I did a bit of preliminary research and talked to my friend Amanda Barnes from @23oz.indigo and @selvedge_sisters on Instagram.
She shared this excellent resource on Reddit, which I encourage you to consult. Here are some of the brands that I found that make women’s jeans:
- Naked & Famous
- Nudie Jeans Co
- imogene + willie
- Railcar Fine Goods
- Hiut Denim
- Dawson Denim
- Pure Blue Japan
Before jeans were mass produced, they were made on shuttle looms designed specifically for making denim. This is the phase of the process where cotton is turned into the denim fabric you are familiar with today.
Selvedge goes by many spellings (selvage, self-edge, salvage) but it all equates to the same thing–the self-binding edge of a fabric woven on a shuttle loom. You can spot selvedge denim by the tell-tale colored lines that often run along the out-seam of a pair of jeans.
It’s also important to note that selvedge denim is not the same as raw denim. Selvedge refers to how the fabric has been woven, whereas raw refers to the wash (or lack thereof) on the fabric itself.
The overwhelming majority of denim made today is open end and non-selvedge. There are only a handful of mills left in the world that create this type denim — this is who we work with.
What is Raw Denim?
If it’s on a roll, it’s raw.
What makes denim raw
Raw denim is stiff. Denim mills add a starch-like substance to make it stiff. The stiffness makes it easier for the denim mill to handle. The stiffness will wash out and the denim will soften.
What makes raw jeans desirable
Most stores don’t sell raw jeans. Most stores only sell washed jeans – because they’ve learned most people want comfortable clothing and raw denim is not considered comfortable for most people.
But a small group of people prefer raw jeans. People who choose raw jeans over washed jeans do so because they want to break-in the jeans themselves.
Raw jeans provide a blank canvas or clean slate, that can pick up fades better than washed denim.
Pro Original Raw, worn daily for 1 year. Not washed at the time of these photos.
Raw jeans can pick up fades better for two reasons: 1) the stiffness of the denim creates more defined creases, and 2) a unwashed jean has experienced no color loss from washing – allowing for greater contrast between faded areas and non-faded areas.
Should you buy raw jeans
We don’t recommend raw jeans unless a customer brings it up first. And we try to educate customers who haven’t owned a raw jean, especially if they’re buying raw because they like the color.
Pro Original Raw vs. Darks. Raw has a greyish top tone that wears and washes out over time.
Raw jeans are not the best option for most guys, but they are the best option for some guys (that’s the reason we sell them).
Here’s some questions we’d ask a customer considering raw denim jeans:
How often do you like to wash your jeans?
If you like to wash often, there’s no reason to buy raw denim jeans, buy a dark wash jeans instead. Because with raw, you’ll want to go as long as possible without washing, like once or twice a year.
How important is comfortable clothing to you?
If comfy clothes are important to you, don’t buy raw denim jeans. They’re not known for their comfort until they’re broken in, which can take months.
Do you care about the process of breaking in a jean from scratch?
Breaking in a jean from scratch is the only reason to buy raw. If you don’t care about the break-in process, don’t buy raw.
Pro Original Raw and Pro Original Darks is the same denim. Darks has been washed once.
If a customer is on the fence between Pro Original Darks and Pro Original Raw, we will always recommend Pro Original Darks. A customer can still get good fades over time, but Darks will be more comfortable from the start.
If you’re buying raw, should you change your size?
There are two types of denim: sanforized and unsanforized.
Sanforization is a process that removes shrinkage in fabric. If a jean is made from unsanforized denim, it will shrink. If a jean is made from sanforized denim, it won’t shrink enough to affect your size decisions. We use sanforized denim, we recommend customers don’t change their size.
Now with all the cautionary guidance complete, we sell raw denim jeans for a reason, they’re cool. If you have questions, please feel free to contact us.
A Guide to the Undying World of Raw Denim
Raw denim isn’t a boys’ game. Creating the perfect fit and style requires a serious commitment. Consider this a crib sheet to get you started.
After years of resisting the Holy Grail of denim heads, maybe you want to give raw a whirl. Raw denim is not washed (one of the last steps in manufacturing jeans), meaning the dye is still its original form. It’ll be up to you to break the jeans down the way you want them; we’re talking the fade, markings and creases—every detail is 100% personalized. And, if properly cared for, raw denim can easily last years—double-digit years. So if you’re going for it, here’s what you have to know.
Let’s Talk About Shrinkage
Since raw denim is unwashed, it will shrink. But there’s a process called «sanforization» that some manufactures apply to reduce shrinking. After the fabric comes off the loom, it is fed through a sanforization machine that uses a series of rollers, heat and moisture to stretch, shrink and stabilize the denim. This is why sanforized jeans are considered to be «pre-shrunk.» Shrinkage with sanforized denim is limited to less than 1%, while unsanforized denim could shrink up to one or two sizes. (Some brands also offer «one-wash» jeans that have already been washed and will not shrink as much.)
Raw denim enthusiasts have different opinions on which is better, and it’s really a personal decision. Unsanforized denim is a great choice if you’re looking for a more unique and distinctive fabric, but because the jeans could shrink significantly, it can be tricky to get the right fit. If you’re going raw for the first time, you may want to consider sanforized denim to protect your investment (and other sensitive areas).
Obviously you want to be comfortable in your raw jeans, which tend to have ghost-pant tendencies (or the ability to stand up on their own). Check the label for yarn and weight. Many of the cheaper raw denims are made from open-end yarn, which is not as durable as ring-spun yarn. Ring-spun and double ring-spun yarn result in a much stronger denim that’s also softer—plus, it fades great, leaving you with an awesome vintage look.
Standard American Made Raw Denim Jeans, $124, available at Williamsburg Garment Company
Next up in your label check is the weight, which will determine how comfortable your jeans feel and how they’ll fade. Raw denim under 12 ounces is the easiest to break in and wear, but the fade will be a bit limited compared with heavier styles. Your sweet spot will be 12 to 16 ounces. Anything above 16 ounces requires a serious time commitment and slight insanity. Considering that denim this heavy can stand up on its own, it’s easy to see why breaking these heavy jeans in (and even getting them on) won’t be an easy process.
The last thing to note when shopping for your raw denim is «selvedge.» You’ll see this word splashed on store displays, but don’t be surprised when the salesperson can’t define it. A selvedge is a self-finished edge of fabric that keeps the fabric from unraveling or fraying. Selvedge is a raw denim buzzword that’s been used by higher-end brands to promote authenticity. See, the edges of the jeans are sewn on old-school shuttle looms rather than today’s projectile looms. It’s not an indicator of quality anymore, just a style preference if you cuff your jeans.
The key to purchasing the perfect size of raw denim is to be aware of how much they’ll stretch. Before you shop, measure your waist, inseam and ideal leg opening and think about the style you’re trying to achieve—if you plan to wear your jeans stacked or cuffed, it will affect the length you chose. Remember the denim will stretch about 3-5% or an inch to an inch and a half (if you haven’t chosen a pre-shrunk version). You should be able to get into the jeans without too much of a fight and they should feel tighter on your waist than you’re comfortable with (beauty is pain, my man). The fit should also be tighter around the butt and hips, but not as much as the waist.
The UB201 Tapered Fit Indigo Selvedge, $82, available at The Unbranded Company
Have your measurements but not sure where to start? Here are our five favorite raw styles:
At just $82, these jeans are a great choice for a raw beginner who also favors a classic indigo. The 201 is Unbranded’s tapered fit that’s roomier through the seat and tapers down to a narrow leg opening. $82, available at theunbrandedbrand.com
Levi’s 501 STF
Unsanforized denim can also be referred to as «shrink-to-fit»or STF, which is how Levi’s labels its unsanforized jeans. With a ride range of colors, styles and price points, you’re sure to find the right raw for your style. Plus, you can never really go wrong with the house that built the blue jean. From $68 to $198, available at Levi.com
Hope Street by Williamsburg Garments Company
The first model of the company’s Made in USA collection, Hope Street skinny jeans feature unique and patriotic details such as American flag pocket print and are reasonably priced. And you know, America. $124, available at Williamsburg Garments Company
Rag & Bone Raw Jeans
We like Rag & Bone’s unpretentious take on raw denim. From skinny leg to classic straight leg, you’re sure to find the right fit for your style. And if you’re truly looking for an everyday jean, you can’t go wrong with the dark vintage hue. $210 — $255, available at Rag & Bone
Stealth SK by Rogue Territory
From the murdered out black to the gradually tapered leg, these jeans are pure style for serious dudes. Just add a blazer or a classic white tee and you’re good to go. $230, available at Rogue Territory
Breaking Raw. Tread Lightly.
Raw enthusiasts will have different opinions when it comes to breaking in and washing raw denim—some will say wash when it becomes necessary and others will preach to never, ever wash your raw denim under any circumstances. We believe there’s a happy medium, but it’s going to get weird.
Prior to wearing your new jeans for the first time, you need to soak them. Soaking will remove starch and chemicals, making the fabric softer and help it last longer. (Make sure you know if your raw denim is sanforized or unsanforized. If sanforized or «one-wash» you won’t need to soak them.)
Step One: Fill your bathtub with about five inches of hot water. The hotter the water, the more the color will fade.
Step Two: Put on your jeans—it’s bath time! Yep, that’s right. Wearing the jeans in the tub will help the fabric mold to your body, creating the perfect fit. Make sure your legs are submerged and try not to move too much. Just sit back, relax and enjoy the next one to two hours. Rubber ducky is optional.
Step Three: Carefully remove the jeans and hang them to dry. Since the denim has created a mold of your body they will most likely stand up on their own. Make sure you place them somewhere that won’t freak out your girlfriend. You don’t want her stumbling across ghost-like pants in the middle of the night.
Step Four: To starch or not to starch? The initial starch that was on your new denim was removed during your bath time. Some guys like to add the starch back to help with fading and getting the right creases, but it will also add back stiffness. If that works for you, combine two teaspoons of cornstarch and four cups of water in a spray bottle and spray the dry denim (maintaining a distance of about ten inches) until damp. Hang again to dry.
Now that you’ve soaked and dried your jeans, they’re ready for action. Remember that raw denim is going to be stiff for some time and it could take months to achieve a comfortable, everyday jean. To kick start the process, wear your news jeans for at least a few hours each day. Ride a bike, do lunges or jumping jacks to stretch them out. Just keep the exercise low intensity to avoid blowing out your crotch (er…the jean area around your crotch—but keep it safe both ways and stretch before any physical activity). You can even sleep in your jeans but we only recommend doing this if you’re cool with potentially running your sheets.
Which brings us to the next step in breaking in raw denim: avoid the bleed. The biggest risk of raw denim is the amount the die with run, dying your hands, your furniture and those new sheets you just sprung on to impress your girlfriend (or that she demanded for any future sleepovers). Your best bet is to avoid contact with light surfaces—so stay off that white leather couch (actually, rethink the white leather while you’re at it). Don’t wear your new jeans on rainy days, skip the white sneakers and the high boots and try your best to keep your hands out of your pockets. Also, store your jeans away from other clothing items in your closet.
When to Wash
With all the jumping jacks and sleeping in your new denim, it’s sure to get funky eventually. But do your absolute best to wait five months before washing your jeans. However, do not wait longer than a year—that’s just nasty.
A lot can happen in the months you’re waiting to wash—a smoky club, a bourbon stain, public transportation. To de-funk your denim, spray it with some Febreze and hang the jeans in fresh air or throw them in the freezer to kill the bacteria. The jury is still out on how effective freezing is so for a full-on stink situation, try doubling up on the Febreze before resorting to the spin cycle. For stains, try dabbing the spot with water. (Do NOT use soap or a stain remover as this may cause some of the die to bleed resulting in a very uncool faded spot.)
When the time comes for a proper wash, follow the instructions exactly and dry the jeans the same way you did after the initial soak. Try adding a cup or two of salt to help maintain a deep hue.
Going Raw Ain’t a Sprint
It’s a marathon—it can take up to six months to properly break in raw denim. Plus, as this guide shows, breaking them in properly requires a serious time commitment and things will pretty weird out of the gate. But a great pair of raw denim jeans will become a part of you, showcase your personal style and be the most comfortable thing you own. So stick with it—going raw has its rewards.
Styled by Mac Huelster; hair and makeup by Miguel Lledo for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics; modeled by Malcom Jackson for DNA at Urban Cowboy BnB
A-Staq Tapered Jeans
Introducing a new G-Star classic: the A-Staq. This design merges tradition with innovation from the blue print jeans D-Staq and Triple A. The chino pockets combined with the scoop pockets at the front make this style immediately recognizable as a G-Star pant. The A-Staq sits higher in the waist and gives some room in the seat, while tapering towards the leg opening. The knee darts add extra visibility to the classic G-Star ‘O’ shaped legs.
- High waist
- Regular across the hip, tapered from thigh towards the ankle
- Front pockets-rivet reinforced, coin pocket added
- Chino side pockets — snap closure
- Squared back pockets- reinforced bottom
- Button fly
Antique Worker Denim Organic
This organic cotton denim offers a 3×1 right hand twill construction in a blue grey cast. The addition of the slightest amount of elasticity keeps a genuine denim look, while it enhances a comfortable wear. Organic cotton is combined with recycled polyester and elastane Lycra-166L, creating a sustainable material. It’s dyed with liquid sulfur by Archroma, creating a greyish blue tone.
- Denim 10.9 oz
- 3×1 right hand twill construction
- 71% Organic cotton, 28% Polyester (Recycled), 1% Elastane (Lycra®)
- Organic cotton fibers are free of toxic pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Growing organic cotton improves the soil quality, prevents water contamination and conserves biodiversity, while saving up to 60% water.
- Lycra®166L is a sustainable high performance stretch fiber which holds a Gold Level Material Health Certificate™ from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.
- Dyed with sustainable Archroma® liquid sulfur dye
3D Raw Denim
Untreated and pure, ready for you to break in and make your own.
30°C normal process
Do not tumble dry
Low temperature iron 110°C
Dry cleaning tetrachloride, normal process
Line drying in the shade
Wash inside out, Wash separately or with similar colours, Do not iron print, trims and accessories, Contains non-textile parts of animal origin
10 Go-To Blazer & Jeans Outfits
Blue & Brown
When it comes to wearing a blazer with jeans, it’s often easier to stick to classic colour combos you know are going to work. Opt for a failsafe pairing and combine a brown textured blazer with blue jeans, two colours which’ll always look good together. Finish the look with a darker brown overcoat, a complementary grey roll neck and brown leather Chelsea boots.
Take your inspiration from classic British country clothing, which has always successfully combined texture, pattern and colours to achieve something elegant and playful. Look for an unstructured blazer in a tweed or gun check pattern, which nods to country-wear but updates it with a slimmer cut and modern details.
This is where black jeans come into their own. Wear them with a patterned grey blazer and black roll neck for a monochrome look that’s effortlessly cool and easy to wear. Ideal for wearing to an expensive restaurant or cocktail bar, this outfit perfectly encapsulates what’s appealing about wearing a blazer with jeans in the first place.
An example of how wearing a smarter blazer with little texture can actually look good. The trick is in paying attention to the cut of the blazer, of course, but also in keeping the rest of the look tonal. For a dark blue blazer, wear it with jeans cut in dark or raw denim, and combine with a navy knitted crew neck, T-shirt or polo shirt.
A Double-Breasted Pale Palette
If you fancy going a bit bolder, try opting for a double-breasted blazer. The same rules apply as for single-breasted – that is, unstructured shoulders and texture if possible, which softens the formality of the cut. A more laid back alternative to a suit, try pairing one with a club tie and Oxford button-down shirt and finish with light wash jeans for a look that taps into the elegance of the French Riviera.
For something more Ivy-league inspired, take a chalkstripe navy blazer and pair it with a cricket jumper, button-down shirt, mid-wash denim jeans and tassel loafers. Ideal as an autumnal smart-casual look, this timeless combination wouldn’t look out of place in a country hotel or a Friday afternoon in the office.
Denim jeans make light work of dressing down a blazer, but why not go one stage further by combining the two with a knitted hoodie? Comfortable and easy to wear, a knitted hoodie is smarter and more luxurious than a traditional cotton version, ensuring it doesn’t look out of place when worn underneath a blazer.
If you fancy making more of a statement, a blazer and jeans can easily do so. Channel 1970s Miami and opt for pastel hues consisting of a pale pink, relaxed-fit blazer, white striped shirt and pale-wash denim jeans. This is a look that requires a lot of confidence but, in the right scenario (think pool party in South Beach), it could make you the most stylish man in the room.
Another way to wear a double-breasted blazer with jeans is to go the nautical-inspired route, replete with naval officer gold buttons. It’s a bold jacket, sure, but one that is unapologetic in its look and feel. Dressed down perfectly with mid-wash denim, it’ll work well in the warmer months when paired with other staples in white, red and blue.
For summer, an all-white outfit consisting of jeans and a T-shirt can be quite the statement, but it’s perfectly softened by a lightweight, unstructured blazer in a complementary shade. Look for one in a grey herringbone weave, which adds a welcome bit of texture to an otherwise dazzling ensemble.
Charlie Thomas is a writer and photographer, contributing to publications including The Independent, The Times, The Rake and Black + White Photography magazine. His photography has been exhibited by Photofusion, Central Saint Martins and Photo Co-Op.